Roastmaster's Blog
"Oklamopia"
In the early days of the DoubleShot, when we were just beginning to understand the magic that Ethiopia brings to coffee, an interesting story opened up to me that brought that world from across the sea right home to Oklahoma.
Two greying men met at the DoubleShot a couple of days per week. They would sit at ease and drink our drip coffee and leisurely converse. If you wandered near their table at any point you might hear them discussing politics or current events or some philosophical point of which they’d plenty of time to ponder. The discourse was one monologue with plenty of air between words, unhurried and immersive, followed by the other rebutting or augmenting the previous assertions. And this would go on until they figured they should mosey on to who-knows-where. It reminded me of the coffee breaks my grandpa would take in the afternoons, meeting daily at Hy-Vee’s grocery cafe or Hardee’s restaurant, seemingly unplanned yet unsurprised to see his buddies.
One day, one of these older gentlemen came to me with unusual and mysterious items in hand. He told me he had been a professor at OSU and taught in Ethiopia for a few years. He handed me a primitive wooden mortar approximately one-foot tall, which he said was “an Ethiopian coffee grinder.” I envisioned a woman roasting coffee beans in an iron bowl over a small mound of coals and then pulverizing them in this hollowed-out log. Ethiopia is one of the only countries who maintain a custom of drinking the coffee they produce. Most coffee-producing countries export their entire crop and leave the coffee drinking for Nescafe. Ethiopians have a lengthy, unhurried coffee ceremony that my grandpa would appreciate. They take fresh roasted coffee to the extreme, much like I did in the beginning of my roasting exercises - pouring coffee from roaster to grinder to brewer to cup, all within minutes. Coffee is indigenous to Ethiopia. And after the storied discovery of coffee’s restorative powers, the development of its consumption moved from eating the cherries to consuming the raw seeds mixed with animal fat, to drinking wine from the fruit pulp. And who devised the amazing plan of roasting its seeds and extracting their goodness with water? No one really knows. But though the consumption of coffee had evolved, the cultivation and processing of coffee had remained a wild, anecdotally-driven avocation in Ethiopia for centuries.
In August 1952 a group of six Oklahoma A&M (now OSU) staff members arrived in Ethiopia in order to determine a suitable site for The Imperial Ethiopian College of Agriculture and Mechanical Arts. At that time a survey had been done and it failed to find a single Ethiopian national with the equivalent of a B.S. degree in any phase of agriculture. OSU had commenced the construction of an agriculture school in Ethiopia with funding from USAID. With the assistance of the Emperor Haile Selassie (hereafter referred to simply as “King of Kings, Conquering Lion of the Tribe of Judah, Elect of God, Emperor of Ethiopia” or alternatively, “His Imperial Majesty”) the school was located in the famous coffee-growing region of Harrar, with a junior college in Kaffa and one near the capital city of Addis Ababa. The goal of this project was to teach Ethiopians about the scientific and industrial progress in agriculture, and to educate enough Ethiopians to take over the administration of these institutions as soon as possible. The main focus of the college was on food farming and coffee cultivation. OSU operated in Ethiopia from 1952-1968, when there were enough nationals to fill the staff. During that time 384 people graduated, most becoming ministers of Agriculture and Education. And 136 students went on to pursue advanced degrees in the United States before returning to teach at the college or work in the Ethiopian government.
The professor who gave me the mortar for crushing coffee also gave me an elaborate charcoal drawing of one of Haile Selassie’s Imperial Guards, or Kebur Zebagya. He told me one of his Ethiopian students drew this and gave it to him. The drawing is signed "Kiros Woldu" and dated ’65. I love this piece of art and it hangs on the brick wall behind my roaster. It’s a reminder of our connection with Ethiopian coffee farmers through OSU and the professor who spent so many days chatting at our tables.
Bekele Dukale lives in the Gedeb region of Ethiopia. He owns a farm that is about 5 hectares in size, which is the equivalent of 12 acres or the size of 10 football fields. That’s a pretty big farm in Ethiopia. Bekele grows coffee and sells it to a mill called the Worka Cooperative. This is a place that buys coffee cherries and dries them, and then processes the coffee to be sold through the Ethiopian Coffee Exchange or through a private exporter. Bekele has enough land and is producing a high enough quality for the mill to separate his coffee into a micro-lot. This is fairly unusual for Ethiopia.
Gedeb is southeast of the Yirgacheffe region, which is well-regarded as producing the best coffees in the world. The reasons for this are likely the high elevation, the microclimates, and the age-old heirloom varieties of coffee that are growing in the area. Though Gedeb is designated as a separate region, it is home to some of the same types of coffees, and is supposedly the highest place in the country where coffee is cultivated.
Coffees are graded for export. Each coffee-producing country has different grading practices and designations, some based on bean size, others on its elevation, etc. In Ethiopia, coffees are graded 1-9 based on visual inspection for defects and on cup quality. Up until just a couple of years ago, a grade 1 Natural was unheard-of. And it’s still a very stringent designation because the natural variance in dry-processed coffee beans is something that must be minimized by careful harvesting, hand sorting, and meticulous milling.
This year I bought coffee that was grown by Bekele Dukale. I’ve never been to Ethiopia, nor have I met Bekele. I bought the coffee from my friend Peter at Royal Coffee, which is a specialty broker in Oakland. This coffee is a grade 1 natural, 100% grown by Bekele Dukale in Gedeb, and dry processed at the Worka Cooperative. This is one of the holiday coffees we are offering this year to help you celebrate with family and friends, at home by yourself in front of the fireplace with a good book, or with someone special. The coffee roasts beautifully. It is consistent and even in color. In the cup, it has a very soft mouthfeel with lots of dark chocolate and cinnamon. Notes of pear and strawberry peak through, not in an invasive way, but just to tickle your more extravagant sensibilities. I love it and I know you will too. Our pastry chef, Curtis, developed a beautiful and simple food pairing for this coffee, based on a rustic French dish called clafoutis (apparently pronounced claw-foo-tee’). Buy a pound at the DoubleShot or online and we’ll send you the recipe card with instructions and a mouth-watering picture.
I can’t consume any dairy, so clafoutis is out of the question, but my friend Mark Brown suggested another pairing for Bekele’s coffee, and it’s one I am really enjoying. From Mark’s food publication, argentfork:
chocolate pear crumble
I tossed one of these together for some
friends last month who barely saved me
any. I did one similar for the woman who
taught us French when we were in France.
She said, “Mark … c’est incroyable.” And it
was. Butter the bottom of a baking dish big
enough to accommodate your pears. Half or
slice or chunk the fruit—it must be ripe—and
lay over it the best chocolate you can afford.
About 4 ounces. Top that with a mixture
of flour, butter and sugar, and maybe even
a little cornmeal for bite. Any old crumble
pastry will do. Bake until golden.
On June 18, 1954, the Ethiopian Emperor, Haile Selassie came to Oklahoma to visit OSU (then known as Oklahoma A&M College). He was visiting in order to show his appreciation for the initiative that the president of Oklahoma A&M College had taken to reach out to his country to develop an international program for educational aid. The colleges that OSU set up in Ethiopia were the first in a new program called the Point Four Program, announced by Harry S. Truman in his inaugural address in 1949. The Emperor’s visit was apparently quite a society event, and 300 of the “elites” of Oklahoma were invited to a formal dinner. Afterward, His Imperial Majesty stood in a reception line for an hour and forty minutes shaking hands and greeting 1,600 people.
Two things stick in my mind about the Ethiopian Emperor’s visit. First, Haile Selassie had requested, while in Oklahoma, to meet an Indian. So upon his arrival he was greeted by a well-known native american named Acee Blue Eagle, who was in traditional dress, and he presented the Emperor with an Indian war bonnet. And second, after the formal dinner, Oklahoma Governor Johnston Murray gave a welcoming speech, during which he bungled the pronunciation of Ethiopia, calling it “Oklamopia.”
I searched the list of college graduates during OSU’s time in Ethiopia, but I didn’t find the name Bekele Dukale. No surprise, because the graduates seemed to be from the wealthier families of Ethiopia, emerging into teaching and governing jobs, or if into private farming, it was generally a large enterprise. But the advancements made in farming technologies and education of farming methods, experiments with varieties and processes, and the general imprint made on the culture of coffee farming in Ethiopia by the schools from the OSU/USAID program were wide-reaching. It is because of this dissemination of information and practical knowledge that a man like Bekele Dukale could learn to produce the highest quality of coffee from the finest coffee-producing region in the world. It’s a testament to the foresight in the 1950s by a handful of leaders in Oklahoma and Ethiopia that today one of the best coffees in the world was grown in Ethiopia, and is being roasted, brewed and enjoyed in Oklahoma. For that, we show our gratitude. So why not call it “Oklamopia”?
Our Ethiopian coffee from Bekele Dukale is available for a limited time at the DoubleShot and online. We are selling it in special one-pound bags with an info card attached and our clafoutis recipe card.
Nekisse Food Pairings
This is an official Nekisse update, current as of the date and time of this posting.
Things are really heating up around here. Much like Kemgin, the Nekisse is not loitering around the DoubleShot. In fact, we suddenly find ourselves in short supply. In fact, as of right now, I only have 17 gold 12-ounce bags of Nekisse left and available for sale! In a vain attempt to be fair to our online customers as well as our local customers, I'm going to put an online limit of 7 bags in the website inventory. Once they're gone, that's it. The remaining 10 bags are for sale in-house.
If you have bought the Nekisse, or you're planning on it, you'll want to pay special attention to the suggested food pairings on the label. The blueberry lemon-drizzle bread is a great breakfast loaf that will pull you in with its citrus notes that play on the fruity tones of Nekisse, bringing our some of that berry flavor as well as the chocolatey sweetness in the coffee.
Our chocolate lava cake recipe is so rich. With Nekisse, the brightness of the coffee comes in to cleanse your palate between each super chocolate bite with citrus and strawberry flavors. Here are the recipes. Hope you enjoy.
Blueberry Lemon-Drizzle Bread
1 1/2 cups (7 1/2 oz./235 g.) plus 1 tsp. all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 cup (4 oz./125 g.) unsalted butter, at room temperature
3/4 cup (6 oz./185 g.) granulated sugar
1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
3 large eggs
1/2 cup (4 fl. oz./125 ml.) whole milk
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1 cup (4 oz./125 g.) fresh blueberries
For the syrup:
3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
3 Tbs. granulated sugar
For the glaze:
1/2 cup (2 oz./60 g.) confectioners’ sugar
3 tsp. fresh lemon juice
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350° F (180° C). Butter and flour a 9-by-5-inch (23-by-13-cm.) loaf pan.
In a bowl, sift together the 1 1/2 cups flour, baking powder and salt. In the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, granulated sugar and lemon zest on medium-high speed until lightened. Add the eggs one at a time, beating until each is incorporated. Add the milk and vanilla and stir until blended. Add the dry ingredients and stir just until blended. In a small bowl, toss the blueberries with the 1 teaspoon flour. Gently stir into the batter.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until lightly browned and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 50 minutes. Transfer the bread to a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet and let cool in the pan for a few minutes, then turn out onto the rack.
While the bread is baking, make the syrup: In a small saucepan, boil the lemon juice and granulated sugar over medium heat until syrupy, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Using a wooden skewer, pierce the sides and bottom of the bread all over. Brush the bread generously with the syrup.
To make the glaze, in a small bowl, stir together the confectioners’ sugar and lemon juice. When the bread is completely cool, drizzle the glaze over the top. Makes 1 large loaf.
Chocolate Lava Cakes (or Molten Chocolate Cakes) - courtesy of my mom
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
8 oz. bittersweet (not unsweetened) chocolate, chopped
½ cup unsalted butter, diced
3 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
Butter and flour 5 custard cups. Whisk sugar and cornstarch in large bowl to combine. Melt chocolate and butter in heavy medium saucepan over low heat, stirring constantly. Cool 10 minutes. Add sugar mixture to chocolate mixture and whisk until smooth. Whisk in eggs 1 at a time, then whisk in yolks. Divide batter between pans. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bake cakes until puffed, dry and cracked on top and tester inserted into center comes out with some wet batter attached, about 25 minutes (28 minutes if batter has been chilled). Cool cakes 10 minutes. Cut around cakes to loosen. Turn out onto plates. Serve cakes warm with whipped crème or ice cream.
I like to drizzle raspberry sauce on the plate before plating.
Keep an eye out for an opportunity to purchase a bit of my personal stash of coffee. (Tchembe is about to take the stage for the last run up to Christmas.)
Nekisse
My dad* has always been the key influence in my life when it comes to work. He installs floor covering. And the man is a workhorse. I remember when I was a kid, my dad would lift a huge roll of carpet onto his shoulder and walk up stairs. He seemed to work interminably, sweating, breathing hard, and moving things in ways I couldn’t budge. Not only that, he makes extremely precise cuts, very rapidly. He measures in ways I don’t understand, makes calculations in his head, and cuts things upside down and backward, perfectly. His patterns are uniform and square, and somehow bend around curves. He wields a carpet knife, with its reversible razor blade, penetrating to the exact depth needed, ripping down a row of yarn, so square that his trimming is minimal and his waste almost nil.
He has the patience to work on cars. Completely disassembling and reassembling three in my memory: a Model A Ford, a Model T Ford, and a Falcon Knight Speedster. These came apart rusted with friction that breaks and busts even calloused knuckles. But they went back together smooth and lubricated, painted and polished, pinstriped, upholstered, and running like they did off the early 1900s showroom floor.
The man can fix almost anything. So much so that he took to collecting antiques, some of them relinquished to the junk pile, because he could see the beauty in a worn out, beat up cabinet or dresser. I grew up using restored antique furniture with names like “hall tree” and “pie safe.” The patience and precision and vision that he has can transform wood and marble and brass. And boy can he swing a hammer.
The peak of his antique restoration came in the form of a run-down, dirty, two-story Victorian house with a carriage barn and, once completed, a round brick patio. Layers of paint and wallpaper and old newspaper came off with sweat and toil, and beneath it all he found the wood that once again brought class and refinement throughout their home.
His product is meticulous.
And he drinks a lot of coffee.
Coffee is a curious thing. Like corn, it’s a huge commodity. Coffee trees grow and produce fruit, while the farmer toils in the equatorial sun to keep them healthy and productive. Margins fluctuate but the work is constant. During harvest, hand picking is followed by milling (sometimes by hand) and drying (oftentimes on patios where people rake the coffee to ensure consistency) and sorting (sometimes performed by women who pick through every coffee bean to remove defects) and bagging (almost always controlled by men who dispense the coffee into a bag and then sew it shut). And amongst these commodity beans, occasionally an experienced cupper will pull out a specific lot because they recognize that it surpasses the quality and flavor profile of its peers. But true exceptional coffees are not the result of luck or happenstance, rather the product of concerted effort, focused methodology, and fastidious performance. People produce high quality coffees on purpose.
I roasted a batch of Nekisse a few days ago and it was one of those roasts where I just knew I nailed it. It was beautiful. I set the damper on par to restrict the airflow just right, bringing the temperature of the coffee up at the precise timing I intended. I felt like the temperature profile of this roast should be recorded on canvas and placed in the Philbrook. The coffee coalesced at first crack and became one mass of popping, drumming, hip-shaking rhythm to the drone of the roaster purring like a huge metal lion. And I manipulated the intake and outflow until those precious few seconds arrived at the end of the roast where the coffee and I speak to one another.
Because I’ve worked with coffee a lot and I care about coffee a lot, something happens between the coffee and me. There is a personification of the coffee beans. They become a living entity, the embodiment of all those who toiled on the their behalf. The coffee is like the star of the show, who couldn’t be where it is if it weren’t for so many people behind the scenes who worked hard to propel it to greatness. And all those people who had a hand in the coffee come with it to the DoubleShot, from the ones who nurture the coffee trees from seedlings to transplanted mature adults, to those who fertilize and prune and pick and carry the coffee cherry down the mountain. The people who process the coffee and turn the coffee over on its drying bed. Those who manage its production and sort out the premium quality beans for us. The baggers, the shippers, the cargo ship captain who delivered our coffee in port. They’re all in there with the coffee, because this coffee couldn’t have become what it is without all those people striving on its behalf. And their spirits cry out in those final moments of the roast and I can feel it. And they are happy, proud, excited.
The entire life of this coffee has come to this. All that came before was for this moment in time. Everything that has happened to this coffee along the way allowed us to fulfill Nekisse’s mission by roasting it properly and delivering it to you for your ultimate enjoyment. That’s what this coffee was made for.
And at the moment I dropped that Nekisse from the roasting drum into the oversized stainless cooling bin, all of my life had led to this. All the hours of roasting and learning and listening and reading and hauling bags of coffee on my shoulder. All the lessons my dad taught me through his actions about working hard and doing my best, about learning a craft and becoming good at it, about the value of transforming raw materials to make something beautiful. All of that work by my father carried forward in me, like the work of the coffee producers which carried forward in the Nekisse. And it all came together for one purpose: To make delicious coffee.
Nekisse is moving fast. (get it here: DoubleShotCoffee.com/nekisse) The response to this coffee has been outstanding, and we love the appreciation you’ve shown to our efforts in providing coffees of this caliber. With fantastic fruity aromas of strawberry and peach, the brightness of Nekisse glows through in the cup past a sea of milk chocolate that will linger on your palate.
Two more exciting things will happen this Tuesday. We will prepare two food pairings that accentuate the amazing qualities of Nekisse: a blueberry-lemon drizzle bread and a chocolate lava cake. You will have the opportunity to let us make you a pourover of Nekisse and purchase one or both of the food pairings with it. This is a one-time offering, happening Tuesday, December 10.
The second thing you need to know about this Tuesday is that we will be releasing a new chocolate bar. I’ve once again collaborated with the chocolatier who produces our MADURO bars to create a new bar featuring our NEKISSE coffee in a darker chocolate from the Ivory Coast. It really makes a rich melange of bright, fruity, coffee flavors in that bed of amazing, silky dark chocolate. A great gift for the holidays and a special treat for you.
Tuesday will be a great day at the DoubleShot.
* If you look around the DoubleShot, most of what you see was made by or restored by or at least inspired by my dad, Steve Franklin.
Kemgin
Well, the holidays are upon us once again. And as usual, we have pulled out all the stops to bring you some amazing coffees during your holiday celebrations. This Wednesday night marks the beginning of Hanukkah, and Thursday is Thanksgiving, so right now is the opportune moment to purchase the first of these brilliant coffees.
Kemgin is a very high-end coffee from Ethiopia that we procured through Ninety Plus, who have brought us so many exquisite coffees throughout the years. We offered the Kemgin a couple of years ago, and it was a big hit then, so we've brought it back for another go-around. This is a coffee that has been celebrated by coffee reviewers and professional tasters, as well as winning top coffee at the Good Food Awards.
Because of the region where it is grown, the care with which it is picked, and the clean processing and sorting of Kemgin, it achieves some of the flavors that make coffees stand out as the best coffees in the world. Aromas of jasmine and lemon lead off, and as you taste the coffee, nuances of black tea and orange excite your palate, with a long, silky finish with highlights of pine. Perfect for the holiday season.
Because we care about your coffee experiences at home, we came up with two food pairings we think accentuate the coffee in different ways. Obviously you'll want to drink Kemgin by itself, but having just the right thing to go with it for breakfast and dessert makes the coffee all the more pleasurable. Follow these recipes for our Cranberry-Orange Muffins and Blackberry Cobbler.
Cranberry Orange Muffins (courtesy of our baker, Kristin Hoffman)
1 orange (including peel), quartered with seeds removed
1/2 Cup orange juice (juice of 1 orange)
1 egg
1/2 Cup butter, melted
1-3/4 Cup all-purpose flour
3/4 Cup white sugar
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
2/3 Cup dried or 1 Cup frozen cranberries
Preheat oven to 400ºF and prepare 12 muffin cups with spray or paper liners. Puree orange quarters and orange juice in a food processor or blender. Add egg and melted butter to orange puree and blend until smooth. Sift dry ingredients together in a medium-sized bowl, then add orange mixture and combine. Stir in cranberries. Fill muffin cups with batter. Bake 20 minutes.
These tend to bring out the black tea flavors in the Kemgin, as well as some soft vanilla flavors that really make this pairing meld together.
Blackberry Cobbler (courtesy of my mom, Millie Franklin)
3 Cups frozen blackberries (do not thaw)
1 large pear, halved, cored, thinly sliced
2/3 Cup sugar
3 T orange juice
2 tsp orange zest
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
Gently toss all ingredients together. Pour into buttered pan.
1 Cup flour
1 Cup sugar
Dash salt
1 Stick butter
Vanilla & Almond extracts (to taste)
Mix sugar, flour, salt, and sugar in food processor with butter until crumbly. Add vanilla and almond extracts and pulse again. Pour over fruit and bake 350 degrees until brown and bubbly (45-50 minutes).
The pears in this cobbler really smooth out the acidity in the blackberries, and the whole thing brings out the citrusy aspect of the Kemgin, and the cinnamon really carries forward through the coffee to make for a unified experience.
Both of these recipes are just unbelievably good, and I highly suggest you give them both a try while you have Kemgin in hand. And it's not going to last long, so buy some today!
Changes
My college football coach, who we called "Big Red", would remind his players on a regular basis, "Every day, you either get better or you get worse; you never stay the same." I've remembered that through the years, and found it to be true about everything. Nothing stays the same. In fact, it's virtually impossible to do something twice in exactly the same way, and it's especially improbable that you'll ever attain exactly the same outcome twice.
In my younger years, I listened to and read a lot of motivational leadership books and speeches, and it's really shaped not only who I am, but the way in which I believe. Not just what I believe. But there was a guy named Zig Ziglar, who I used to get a kick out of, and he was full of sayings about this and that. One of the things I remember him saying, in the course of convincing his listeners to change the way they do things, is that "The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result." I've since heard other people say this, and I couldn't disagree more. To me, it's not insanity, but it is lunacy (is there a difference?) to think that you could do the same thing over and over again and get the SAME result. Things just don't happen like that. But I do agree with Zig (and so many others) about the idea that you should institute your own change. Change your mind, change your actions, change your outcomes.
And that's what we strive to do here at the DoubleShot. I know we're not going to pull the exact same shot of espresso twice. I know that we're not going to brew the exact same cup of coffee twice. I have no doubt that your experiences here are different every single day. And I'm ok with that. Since change is inevitable, I feel that it is our duty to try and get BETTER every day.
With that in mind, we've been working on three different projects in an attempt to brew better coffee.
When we opened the DoubleShot in 2004, it was very important to me that we have great drip coffee, even though I couldn't afford to invest in a high-end machine. So we brewed through your standard commercial brewer, and in order to make the coffee taste extra good, we also brewed a french press of the coffee, and added it to the airpot. (Interestingly, as a side note, I found that most coffee, when dispensed through an airpot, aerates as it comes out and has bubbles on top; but coffee brewed with a french press will not aerate. You cannot aerate french press coffee for some reason. Maybe because of the heavy oil concentration.) The second phase of our coffee brewing came when I finally upgraded to a Fetco brewer. The brewed coffee was markedly better, and the need to add a french press to the pot was negated. We suddenly had so much more control over the brewing variables, and a large shower head that saturated the entire bed of coffee grounds in the basket. For around 8 years we used that brewer, switching about a year ago from 85 ounce airpots to 1 gallon dispensers. But our volume has actually long outgrown it. And so it was that last Friday we installed a new, larger Fetco coffee brewer. With new control and sensitivity, we began to experiment with all the brewing variables, changing the brew time, the water temperature, water volume, coffee grind coarseness and weight, and pre-wet volume and time (This is the period at the beginning of a brew cycle when the Fetco dispenses hot water onto the dry coffee grounds, saturating the bed, and then pausing to let it bloom before commencing with the brew cycle.). These variables, working in tandem, each change the coffee in some way, and when they are all put together right, the coffee produced can be really good. And, well, after a lot of trial and some minor palate burn-out, we are currently satisfied with the results. I know you're going to love the new recipe, so be sure and come by for a cup soon. (Incidentally, if you'd like to buy our smaller Fetco brewer, it's currently listed for sale on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/franklin527/m.html
The other things we've been working on here at the DS are akin to building a better mouse trap. As an exercise in creativity and brewing science, I asked all of the baristas to come up with an idea for a new brewing method. The future of coffee brewing. How will we be brewing coffee in 5 years? As you can imagine, the results were interesting and sometimes a bit amusing. I recorded a podcast about it, which you can hear at aacafe.org. If you've never listened to our podcast, you should go check it out. I started it in July 2005, though some of the earlier episodes are no longer available, and you should thank me for that. Since its inception, the podcast content and format have gone through more changes than the… well, suffice it to say, if you don't like it, just wait til the next episode; it will change. Mark Brown, former editor at This Land magazine, and author of Argentfork, is my cohost for the podcast. We talk about coffee, but mostly we talk around coffee. Take a listen sometime, and pass it on.
Our other mission is concerning how you make coffee at home. Or on the road. Over the years, we've worked hard to find the best products for home coffee brewing, and we offer those in the store and on our website. The baristas are all well-versed in different brewing techniques and are happy to help you figure out what best suits your situation. Soon we will publish our own manual for various brewing techniques, in a pocket-sized booklet that you'll want to buy and keep handy when making coffee.
Some of our efforts through the years have resulted in unique products for your home, such as the V60 Filter Crib (check out the new, updated version). And some have been about making coffee during travel, like the CONNECT3 Adaptor Ring (now available as a complete set!).
But what about making it easier to brew coffee at home without investing a lot of money in equipment? That's our next assignment. If you listen to the TED talks, or are part of the "maker" community, you know that things are trending toward simplicity, sometimes through extremely technologically-advanced machines, like 3D printers and the like. I'm interested in open-source, simple to construct coffee brewing devices. I'm both interested in something you could print with a 3d printer, as well as something you could adapt from things around your house in order to make a great cup of coffee. Hopefully someday there will be so many ideas about ways to make coffee that the only reason you could have, no matter where you are, for not making coffee, would be if you didn't have any fresh-roasted DoubleShot Coffee beans. Stay tuned for these ideas as we develop them over the next few months.
Lastly, I have some good news and some bad news. The Ethiopia Natural Sidamo Korate is all gone (though watch for the commemorative tshirt). This coffee has been a huge favorite around here with employees and customers alike. But this is how things go with coffee. Out with last year's favorite and in with the new favorite. Tonight I'll roast the inaugural batch of a new natural Sidamo called Adem Chilcho. This coffee is different from the Korate, but absolutely delicious. It's grown in the Sidamo region of Ethiopia, near a town called Dilla. Three indigenous groups took part in growing this coffee on small plots, and then the coffee was dried in the sun on raised beds before it was cleaned and sorted and made ready for me to roast it. Read more about it here: http://www.doubleshotcoffee.com/products/ethiopia-natural-sidamo-adem-chilcho
And BTW, if you've been trying to come in the wrong door for the past three years, you're in luck; I finally built and installed a sign over the café!
Percolating
I turned off the air conditioner in my house five days ago. Yesterday the temperature crept up into the nineties outside, and in my house, the insulation I so fervently felt I needed made sure to keep that thermal energy from escaping. And so here I sit, sweating beneath the impotent, oscillating ceiling fans. My body radiates in a futile attempt to generate a moisture barrier to cool my skin through evaporation, adding to the haze of humidity that permeates my lungs like second-hand smoke in a crowded bar. I pick up where I left off on a dog-eared page of Out of Africa, hoping Karen Blixen will carry me off to a place where the heat seems justified. And where I might crawl into bed under a translucent net to keep from the mosquitoes that so debilitated Henry Morton Stanley on his long trek across Tanganyika in search of Dr. Livingstone.
My legs are tired because my lungs don't work right because of this damned air conditioner. And because I rode my bicycle 68 miles yesterday. A twinge of pain in my knee. And in my ankle, where I turned it on a rubber tire trying to reenact my youthful and more agile days of high school football. And a scene drifts across my mind, as if a movie projected on the shadowy ceiling silhouetted by the outline of deer antlers, of Hemingway's gangrene-addled invalid adventurer in the Snows of Kilimanjaro.
I've just finished another AA Cafe podcast, and I can still feel the hike and conversation with Steve Holt of Ninety Plus Gesha Estates on the farm, in the mountains, surrounded by rainforest, sweating in the unbroken rays of the midday sun. Steve brings us up the mountain and around the largest Gesha farm in the world, describing the coffees of Panama; and across the Atlantic Ocean, across the dark continent, to the origin of coffee and of Ninety Plus to tease us with tastes of what's to come from Ethiopia this year.
Ethiopia is having a good year for coffee, and we hope to gather a nice crop from a variety of regions and processes (or of the influence of fruit, as Steve Holt defines it). The newest of our Ethiopian coffees is from the Harrar region. It's called Deep Blue, and it is a dry-processed coffee, which means the fruit had a large influence on the taste of the coffee. This Harrar Deep Blue is a product of many very small farmers, who picked the coffee cherries when they ripened and laid them whole on mats and cement patios to dry and shrivel into coffee raisins in the high-elevation equatorial sun. The coffee, from its terroir and its unique varieties and the weather that allowed the coffee to dry properly at each farmer's home, blends together to give us brilliant flavors of chocolate and blueberries and cinnamon. So good.
Reminds me of an experiment we did back a couple years ago in Colombia, at the farm of Las Animas, where we asked Gabriel and Orfilia Escobar to let the fruit influence their coffee. And I remember my visit last year to Concordia, when I rode in the back seat of a pickup truck over dirt roads, winding through coffee trees with no leaves bearing immature green fruit that would never ripen because of a fungus called the Eye of the Rooster. We rolled up to Finca San Rafael, where Alfredo Correa tends his grandmother's coffee and has produced such an amazing product for us in the past, but instead of picking or milling or sorting coffee like Alfredo usually is during the harvest, we found him working on his motorcycle. The Eye of the Rooster took 95% of Alfredo's crop and the sweat of all his years of toil dried up on the mountainside and was replaced with the sweat of a young man with almost nothing to show and no way to pay. Somehow Alfredo produced one bag of super-high-end coffee this year that rivals the best washed coffees we've offered, and we have that bag. It's a great example of fruit influence in a washed coffee.
I've just finished a cup and washed it down with a rinse of water and the taste instantly transported me to another sweaty time in college, working for my dad. He is adamant that it must be hot inside in order to lay commercial floor covering, and so we worked on dirty concrete floors with scratchy carpets and heavy ceramic. And all day long, we drank coffee out of the little metal-covered plastic lid that screws on the top of my dad's beat-up green metal thermos, on our breaks and in between our breaks; and when we needed some water, we would fill up that empty cup and the residual coffee would lend a distinct, mild, flavor to the water. And the residual coffee in my mouth lent a coffee taste to everything.
The "coffee taste" can't be so easily generalized or genericized any more, as the variety of DoubleShot Coffees spans a breadth of flavors broader than all the Scotch of Scotland. And even one coffee can become three (like the Holy Trinity) when extracted through different methods. We are going to do just that. One coffee, three brewing methods. On June 28 at 7p here at the DoubleShot, we will premier Alfredo Correa's Colombia Finca San Rafael through pourovers, presspots, and espressos. Three different stations will allow you to learn the method, pose questions of the barista, and enjoy the unique flavors that permeate each cup. Alfredo's coffee has depth that is best explored through different types of extraction.
This event is brought to you by Coffee Illuminati, and proceeds will be used to build a swingset for the children at Ninety Plus Gesha Estates. You can register for this event at the DoubleShot by talking to your barista or by emailing info@coffeeilluminati.com