Roastmaster's Blog
Perci Red
The first time I took a vacation as an adult, I had never really been anywhere besides Illinois, Oklahoma, Louisiana and the couple states in between. So when it occurred to me to go somewhere, my options seemed limitless. I eventually settled on Moab, Utah, because I was really into mountain biking and everyone knows that Moab is the "Mecca" of mountain biking. So I packed up my bike and began this pilgrimage into a vast and mysterious territory. I had never been in the mountains, nor desert, but I did grow up in farm country much like the scenery during the first 9 hours of my drive.
I didn't do much research about Moab, other than finding it on a map, because Moab is legendary. Without a naysayer, the mountain bikers who have ridden Moab say it's Mecca, and the people who haven't ridden it either want to or are too scared. I knew that Moab is in the desert. So I had this image in my head of a desert. The desert of Lawrence of Arabia. Of Captain Riley's "Skeletons on the Sahara" and of my roadtrip to Little Sahara in Northwest Oklahoma during my first year in college. Of the great, 1,000-foot dunes of Namibia. And I wondered how people could ride their mountain bikes through sand as deep as a camel's knee, but I never questioned that they did; I just didn't know how yet.
The drive from Tulsa to Moab is a dogleg north and straight west for hours through wheat fields and sunflower farms. And then, on the horizon, the Rocky Mountains appear through the haze over Denver. I camped as soon as the sun set, up on a 4WD road, and I awoke to a mountainside matrix of white trees, which I assumed were aspens. Needless to say, the next few hours were some of the most amazing miles of my life. I stopped frequently to look around and take pictures of landscape completely foreign to my corn-fed eyes. And then the western slope. And I entered Utah.
When I turned off I-70 onto Highway 128 and traversed the ledge overlooking the Colorado River, Moab became real to me. It was no longer a sandy, barren expanse of dunes, but this amazing, ominous land of cliffs and canyons and arches and rock formations of every unimaginable shape. It became ride-able and beautiful and real, and better than I could've ever imagined.
And honestly, that's the way I feel about Perci Red. For you, right now, coffee may have a certain Saharan stigma as a bitter, bland, caffeine-saturated eye-opener. Perci Red will change your mind. Even if you are a die-hard DoubleShot fan, and you've enjoyed the variety of coffees we offer, from the blackberry notes of our Natural Sidamo to the heavy smoke and herbals of Sumatra Aceh Gold, Perci Red will open your mind to what coffee can be. It will change your perspective.
Perci Red is a natural Gesha coffee from Ninety Plus Gesha Estates in Volcan, Panama. It's the sister of our washed Gesha, Lycello. It has all the amazing flavors of jasmine and lemon and tea and milk chocolate that you tasted in the Lycello, but it has a complex stratus of flavors lingering over that base - black cherry and cranberry and mace. Layers of complexity are the hallmark of Perci Red, and the aromas are just stunning.
When I visited Panama last January, I was able to taste the fruit of the Gesha trees and watch the coffee pickers carefully selecting only the ripest cherries. I saw the meticulous nature by which the workers harvested and cared for the coffee. I made my way to nearby Finca Hartmann, where the coffee was laid out on African raised beds, so the cherries could dry evenly in the sun. And I experienced the unusual sounds and fragrances and tastes and sights that emanate from the Panamanian rainforest, which all contribute to the terroir of Perci Red.
The coffee beans are red. Most unroasted coffee beans are green or bluish-green or yellowish-green, but mostly green. But the ever-curious instigators of coffee quality at Ninety Plus Coffee decided to separate these beans that mysteriously turned red in processing. Or maybe they were born red. And they hand-selected all the red beans from the lot of green ones, creating the coffee we have and hold in such high prestige. The red ones turned out to be so much more intense and unique and complex from the rest of the lot. And of the 330 pounds in existence today, we bought 132. This is the coffee that we have chosen to offer this holiday season.
As part of the 2 Barrel Project, we took this amazing coffee and created an experience around it. I worked with Tulsa potter, Teresa Rechter, to produce a cup that met my specifications for one that is uniquely suited for drawing out all that Perci Red has to give. The shape of the cup cradles the Perci Red just right and draws all of its magical aromas into your mouth and nose. The cup is accompanied by a booklet I wrote that tells all about the origin of Perci Red, and the proper brewing method for the coffee, as well as a food pairing that is just going to rock your world. All this, with 200 grams of our Perci Red, craft roasted right here at the DoubleShot, held in an amber glass bottle and encased in a custom Perci Red wooden box, build with the tools and vision of Paul McEntire, the creator of the North American Wood Amp. The Perci Red experience is ready, and you should reserve yours today.
Buy Perci Red online here: www.DoubleShotCoffee.com/red
You are invited to our free tasting this Saturday, December 8 at 10:30 a.m. right here at the DoubleShot. It's open to the public and completely free, so bring your family and friends. I'll talk about the coffee, show you the goods, and we'll all enjoy a taste of the Perci Red and the food pairing that really amplifies this coffee.
Thanks for being a part of all that we do here at the DoubleShot. We do it for you, and we hope you enjoy the fruits of our labor this holiday season. Take some time off. Take some deep breaths, and retreat from life with a cup of Perci Red. Happy holidays.
Percolating
I turned off the air conditioner in my house five days ago. Yesterday the temperature crept up into the nineties outside, and in my house, the insulation I so fervently felt I needed made sure to keep that thermal energy from escaping. And so here I sit, sweating beneath the impotent, oscillating ceiling fans. My body radiates in a futile attempt to generate a moisture barrier to cool my skin through evaporation, adding to the haze of humidity that permeates my lungs like second-hand smoke in a crowded bar. I pick up where I left off on a dog-eared page of Out of Africa, hoping Karen Blixen will carry me off to a place where the heat seems justified. And where I might crawl into bed under a translucent net to keep from the mosquitoes that so debilitated Henry Morton Stanley on his long trek across Tanganyika in search of Dr. Livingstone.
My legs are tired because my lungs don't work right because of this damned air conditioner. And because I rode my bicycle 68 miles yesterday. A twinge of pain in my knee. And in my ankle, where I turned it on a rubber tire trying to reenact my youthful and more agile days of high school football. And a scene drifts across my mind, as if a movie projected on the shadowy ceiling silhouetted by the outline of deer antlers, of Hemingway's gangrene-addled invalid adventurer in the Snows of Kilimanjaro.
I've just finished another AA Cafe podcast, and I can still feel the hike and conversation with Steve Holt of Ninety Plus Gesha Estates on the farm, in the mountains, surrounded by rainforest, sweating in the unbroken rays of the midday sun. Steve brings us up the mountain and around the largest Gesha farm in the world, describing the coffees of Panama; and across the Atlantic Ocean, across the dark continent, to the origin of coffee and of Ninety Plus to tease us with tastes of what's to come from Ethiopia this year.
Ethiopia is having a good year for coffee, and we hope to gather a nice crop from a variety of regions and processes (or of the influence of fruit, as Steve Holt defines it). The newest of our Ethiopian coffees is from the Harrar region. It's called Deep Blue, and it is a dry-processed coffee, which means the fruit had a large influence on the taste of the coffee. This Harrar Deep Blue is a product of many very small farmers, who picked the coffee cherries when they ripened and laid them whole on mats and cement patios to dry and shrivel into coffee raisins in the high-elevation equatorial sun. The coffee, from its terroir and its unique varieties and the weather that allowed the coffee to dry properly at each farmer's home, blends together to give us brilliant flavors of chocolate and blueberries and cinnamon. So good.
Reminds me of an experiment we did back a couple years ago in Colombia, at the farm of Las Animas, where we asked Gabriel and Orfilia Escobar to let the fruit influence their coffee. And I remember my visit last year to Concordia, when I rode in the back seat of a pickup truck over dirt roads, winding through coffee trees with no leaves bearing immature green fruit that would never ripen because of a fungus called the Eye of the Rooster. We rolled up to Finca San Rafael, where Alfredo Correa tends his grandmother's coffee and has produced such an amazing product for us in the past, but instead of picking or milling or sorting coffee like Alfredo usually is during the harvest, we found him working on his motorcycle. The Eye of the Rooster took 95% of Alfredo's crop and the sweat of all his years of toil dried up on the mountainside and was replaced with the sweat of a young man with almost nothing to show and no way to pay. Somehow Alfredo produced one bag of super-high-end coffee this year that rivals the best washed coffees we've offered, and we have that bag. It's a great example of fruit influence in a washed coffee.
I've just finished a cup and washed it down with a rinse of water and the taste instantly transported me to another sweaty time in college, working for my dad. He is adamant that it must be hot inside in order to lay commercial floor covering, and so we worked on dirty concrete floors with scratchy carpets and heavy ceramic. And all day long, we drank coffee out of the little metal-covered plastic lid that screws on the top of my dad's beat-up green metal thermos, on our breaks and in between our breaks; and when we needed some water, we would fill up that empty cup and the residual coffee would lend a distinct, mild, flavor to the water. And the residual coffee in my mouth lent a coffee taste to everything.
The "coffee taste" can't be so easily generalized or genericized any more, as the variety of DoubleShot Coffees spans a breadth of flavors broader than all the Scotch of Scotland. And even one coffee can become three (like the Holy Trinity) when extracted through different methods. We are going to do just that. One coffee, three brewing methods. On June 28 at 7p here at the DoubleShot, we will premier Alfredo Correa's Colombia Finca San Rafael through pourovers, presspots, and espressos. Three different stations will allow you to learn the method, pose questions of the barista, and enjoy the unique flavors that permeate each cup. Alfredo's coffee has depth that is best explored through different types of extraction.
This event is brought to you by Coffee Illuminati, and proceeds will be used to build a swingset for the children at Ninety Plus Gesha Estates. You can register for this event at the DoubleShot by talking to your barista or by emailing info@coffeeilluminati.com